Billings is the largest city in Montana, yet it still has the small town feel so many Americans are looking for. Nicknamed the “Magic City,” because of its explosive growth in the late 19th century, it was founded in 1882 as a railroad town — and has been growing ever since. It was named for Frederick Billings, former president of the Northern Pacific Railroad. It remains a key rail and energy center serving eastern Montana and much of the region. The Crow people from the nearby Crow Indian Reservation, call the city Ammalapashkuua which translates into  “where they cut wood.”  Early white settlers had setup a sawmill here.

The valley was carved by the Yellowstone River a million years ago through a layer of sandstone — creating a dramatic bluff on the north side of the city known as the the Billings Rimrocks or “the Rims.”  A fantastic bike and hiking trail runs across the top of the Rims, with endless views of the valley and city.  It’s along the trail — right near the airport, you find the Yellowstone County Museum, where you can learn much about Billings history pioneer Paul McCormick (1845-1921), was known as the “Grand Old Man of Montana, playing a key role in the early history of Montana.

McCormick came west in 1866, during the gold rush.  As a co-founder of the Custer Cattle Company, he managed large herds of cattle on the Crow Indian Reservation. He settled in Billings, contributing to the community as a legislator and president of the Montana Society of Pioneers.

His log cabin was a sort of escape, where he once entertained guests including President Theodore Roosevelt. You will find a signed photograph inside the old cabin from TR. Long ago the cabin was moved — and is now the entrance of the Museum. You can almost hear the sounds of laughter and storytelling from the old pioneers of the region.

Over the years, Billings has become a regional center for much of eastern Montana, a key energy center, and a popular hub for tourism. With a short drive southeast from Billings, you can visit the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument. It’s here on June 25th and 26th, 1876, Lakota, Cheyenne and Arapaho warriors fought Lt. Col. George Custer and the 7th Calvary. It was an overwhelming victory for the warriors. Custer, and more than 200 of his men were killed. You see many of the graves where troops were buried where they fell while retreating from the battle.

East of Billings you find a key spot on the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail. At Pompeys Pillar National Monument, you find the only remaining physical evidence of the 8 thousand mile journey. It was on the return trip, Lewis & Clark had split up. Clark and his group came upon a tall hill — which gave him an excellent view of the river and the valley. It was here Clark, climbing up the rock, engraved his name in the sandstone. It is now preserved behind glass. Thousands of other etchings, petroglyphs and pictographs are found in the rocks.

Back in Billings, we also found an old tradition very much alive — fashioning custom cowboy hats. At Rands Custom Hats, Brad Tilden builds, well, custom hats. They have created many f styles of hats, for real cowboys, fans of the Yellowstone Series, and movie and TV starts. What makes them so special? The hats are built out of beaver pelt — just as they would have been made in the late 1800’s — during the early days of the cowboys. As part of the process, they burn the pelt, then steam it to form the shape of the hat. Most important, they get exact measurements, so it fits each unique customer.

Another part of the outdoor scene celebrated in this western town is the Big Sky Balloon Rally. Crews come from all over the west to launch from Amend Park, in Billings. They even give paid rides and the popular balloon glow on one evening. But for 4 days, the action begins before the sun comes up as, weather permitting, the balloons are inflated and launched. It just one of many traditions that make up the fabric of this classic western small town.